Suggestions for Graftobian GlamAire™ Airbrush Application
By Emmy Award™ Winning Makeup Artist, Suzanne Patterson
Graftobian Airbrush Makeup Info: Graftobian offers a unique color identification system that perfectly matches the GlamAire™ Airbrush makeup with the High Definition Glamour Cremes. Graftobian further classifies all colors into the three skin undertones: Warm (yellow/golden undertones), Cool (pink/ruddy undertones) and Neutral (undertones that register neither warm nor cool). This feature, not found in any other airbrush makeup brand, is critical to achieving an identical makeup match to skin, especially for HDTV work. It gives the makeup artist accuracy and efficiency in matching both the skin undertone, and proper selection of the value (light to dark).
Skin Preparation:
1. Begin with clean skin. Do not use any oil based skin care products in order to achieve
maximum bond and long wear from airbrush applied foundation.
2. Determine skin tone type: Oily, Normal, or Dry.
A. If Oily, apply Anti-Shine™ Primer very lightly with a sponge in an ultra-thin transparent
coat. Let it dry down completely, about a minute, before continuing to next step.
B. If Normal, apply Anti-Shine™ Primer using a damp sponge, and apply following the same steps as above for oily skin.
C. If Dry, apply OxyDerm™ Moisturizer sparingly, using a damp sponge, and following the same steps as above. Let moisturizer absorb completely, about 5 minutes, before moving on to next step.
Corrective Work:
• Use either Graftobian HD Glamour Crème Corrector Shades or Foundation shades, depending on your preferred method of correction (concealing with opacity, neutralizing, etc.) Keep this application very thin, like a second skin, and smoothly blended out.
• Next, apply the airbrush color corresponding foundation shade in HD Crème form around various facial openings, such as under the eyes, around the nose, and inside near the ear canals if outer ear is included in airbrushing. Blend well. Using crèmes in these areas helps preserve the safety and comfort of your client and minimizes any airbrush overspray intrusion into these areas.
• Using a high quality Fan Brush, such as the Graftobian Royal Silk C300, pick up a very small amount of the Graftobian Translucent Setting Powder. Apply a micro thin - nearly imperceptible layer of powder by sweeping the brush lightly across the face. If there is any excess or visible powder, then you have used too much. Go over the skin again with a plain fan brush to remove it, or simply as a precaution.
Application of GlamAire™:
• Be absolutely certain that your air pressure is low enough (2 – 4 psi working range) in order to achieve the smoothest transparency and ultra light results in your application technique with GlamAire™. ALWAYS test your fluid control first by spraying a small amount onto a tissue or paper towel. This is to ensure your air pressure and fluid viscosity delivers a super light “fogged” effect before you begin to apply it to skin.
• Your airbrush should always be tipped at a slight downward angle from the skin surface (40 degrees down from horizontal is ideal) and 6-8 inches away from the skin surface to maintain control and lightness in your layering technique.
• Failure to maintain the above points in your application will risk loss of control over the transparency in your results. This is the most common mistake makeup artists make, so make sure your psi and fluid viscosity, and angle of approach to skin are synchronized at all times during your layering process.
• Lay your work down in small dry sections to prevent pooling, so that you don’t end up with a “wet” oversaturated application. This is accomplished in part by employing the technique of small “overlapping circles” as you pass the airbrush over the skin area.
• Work the outer perimeter of the face first so you can continually gauge the transparency and evenness of your layering. Then gradually work towards finishing in the center of the face.
• Keep the airbrush moving at all times during spraying so that your layering stays smooth, even, and translucent.
Blush colors: Graftobian GlamAire™ Blush colors are also keyed in warm, neutral and cool, undertones to ensure a proper compliment to corresponding skin undertone for the most natural looking results. Blush colors may be lightly sprayed over or under a foundation application, depending on artist’s desired outcome. They can also be mixed with a little bit of the foundation color in the SAME UNDERTONE before spraying, but be careful in doing this technique as this may turn the blush color a bit muddy looking.
Contouring/Bronzing: The darker shades in the GlamAire™ line can easily be used for contouring under the jaw, hollow of cheek, etc. Or, use them to enhance your makeup application with a bronzing highlight effect. Select 3-4 shades darker than skin for contouring, or 2 shades darker than skin for bronzing highlights. Be sure that you select shades that are keyed in the SAME UNDERTONE as skin for the most blendable and natural looking results.
Makeup Setting Spray: Although the GlamAire™ Airbrush foundation needs no additional sealant once it has been properly applied, some artists choose to add this step to help protect it against extreme wear conditions, such as outdoors in rain, heavy perspiration due to heat, etc. If desired, place a few drops of our Graftobian Setting Spray into the cup of the airbrush and spray ultra lightly over the surface of the face. Take care NOT to spray it directly around the nose, eyes, and ears, as this is an alcohol based product. Keep it in the facial T-Zone area only.
Airbrush Cleaning: All GlamAire™ products and Makeup Setting Spray can be easily flushed out of your airbrush by using Graftobian Airbrush Cleansing Fluid. For best results, flush the airbrush immediately following use of the GlamAire™ products and Makeup Setting Spray so that they don’t dry out inside the airbrush.
Farewell: If you follow these simple procedures, you will join the ever expanding host of artists who have great success with Graftobian GlamAire™ Airbrush Makeup for TV, Film, Catalog Work, Weddings, Special Events, etc.
